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Dan
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
Posts: 240,
Visits: 1.1K
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ran into a couple probs with some head bolts but I think its all good now... should have the hot rod project engine running this week or next, stayed tuned!
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YellowWing
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 12 Years Ago
Posts: 296,
Visits: 1.8K
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congratulations Dan. Let us know how it does. Mike
1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)
Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ
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mctim64
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Years Ago
Posts: 2.4K,
Visits: 5.0K
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I think we have all been waiting for this, I hope you can post video. 
 God Bless.  Tim http://yblockguy.com/
350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor
tim@yblockguy.com Visalia, California Just west of the Sequoias
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Dan
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
Posts: 240,
Visits: 1.1K
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holy #@$! put it on the stand and pulled the pan, checked end clearance on the rods and found one didnt feel right, sure enough it was on backwards, flip it around and everything is groovy, turns over like a dream...start slowly torquing everything back down, get to the very last main cap and ....  I just about puked... time for a new block  we have another block here in the shop we will tear down and measure, hopefully its useable, a setback for sure but we'll make it happen...
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 3.3K,
Visits: 238.8K
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Dan: Bad luck! I feel for you. However, the first question is, what torque value did you use? And if you have quite a bit of money invested in that block, is there someone local that does casting repairs? Possible it could be carefully built up with Ni Rod or similar & machined or filed down to fit. Just a thought. Maybe someone else on site may also have a solution?..
Paul
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Dan
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 14 Years Ago
Posts: 240,
Visits: 1.1K
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I was creeeping up to a torque of 95 ft lbs, I was torquing them to 70 ft lbs when this happened... some guys on another site have suggested heli-coils and running a stud, not sure what I'm going to try yet... Dont have tons of money tied up in this block so I think I am going to teardown the other we have and see about using it...I think I have couple options we are only going to be out alittle of time and money - nothing fatal I dont think...
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Hoosier Hurricane
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Group: Moderators
Last Active: 36 minutes ago
Posts: 3.7K,
Visits: 322.9K
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Dan: The rear main cap is shorter than the other 4, so it uses shorter bolts. Is it possible one of the short bolts ended up in that hole? That might cause the breakage. If the bolts are mixed up, at least one of the rear bolts is too long and bottomed out. A stud in that front hole to take advantage of all the remaining threads is a good idea, worth a try.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 3.3K,
Visits: 238.8K
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John: Along with replacing the bolt with a stud, would it be possible to Devcon steel or JB weld the broken piece in place so the cap has more surface to fit too?. Would a repair like that stand the heat?
Paul
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Bob's 55
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 11 Years Ago
Posts: 287,
Visits: 1.0K
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What is the chance of the bearing 'walking' around due to the lack of metal in the area along with the bearing tab hanging in the breeze. Call me over cautious but I would use the other block.
On another note, what the heck beat up the oil slinger like that...
BOB
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Hoosier Hurricane
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Group: Moderators
Last Active: 36 minutes ago
Posts: 3.7K,
Visits: 322.9K
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If it were me, I wouldn't try to glue that piece in place. If it came out, it might cause damage before it found its way to the pan. The lack of bearing support wouldn't concern me, it is a very small area. The bearing is clamped in the block by the "crush" when the cap is tigntened, it wouldn't go anywhere.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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