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1955 FordOMatic air cooled transmission

Posted By eyks2 14 Years Ago
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eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Normally aspirated

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I purchased the new flex plate from Tee Bird.  Still having the same problem.  Any suggestions??  I am getting faster at pulling the tranny out though. 
'GB'ird
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eyks2 (7/8/2011)
Are you talking the one that goes on the back of the plate onto the crank??  Does it just take one or does it take two??  thanks again for your help on this project.

For a '55 I think you'll need two spacers.

Richard

rgrove
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Very very very very likely the flex plate. I had same problem, and replaced with the one piece flex plate from tee bird prods and it was cured. Common problem. The rivited ears get just loose enough over tme to make that hammering/rod knock sound at idle. Goes away with any kind of rpms or load.

You could try spot welding the ears with it still in the car to test, but i wouldnt waste the time/effort. This is a very common issue with the rivited flex plates.

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

LON
Posted 14 Years Ago
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I have found 2 types of early air cooled flexplates ,both with ring gear bolted to the convertor .One has 4 ears & one has 2 ears .Have had trouble with both types .The first one I had ( 4 ears ) all broke ,and the noise sounded like the bottom end was going to let go in a big way ??? The second convertor( 2 ears, 3 bolts  bolts in each ear ) developed a knock at idle ???? When I finally pulled the motor & box out I found all the rivets were in place but the piece of spring steel on one side  ,was like jelly ????

It moved that much at idle it was hitting the inside if the bellhousing ,causing the knock . It was fine when you revved it . Fixed the problem by going to a late model flex plate & a seperate convertor .

Lon

yblocksdownunder


Hoosier Hurricane
Posted 14 Years Ago
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It takes 6, and if they are too long they will hit the back of the block and the rear main seal retainer.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/avatars/johnf.jpg
eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Are you talking the one that goes on the back of the plate onto the crank??  Does it just take one or does it take two??  thanks again for your help on this project.
'GB'ird
Posted 14 Years Ago
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That looks like the one and a good price too (at the moment!). You'll need the spacer rings - I believe T-bird Products sell them separately- and bolts of the correct length. I can't recall what this is but they musn't be too long or they'll foul.

Richard

eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Hello

I just found a flex plate on ebay #270777259990.  Is this what I need?  And does it work on an air cooled FordOMatic transmission?

Thanks for the help

Talkwrench
Posted 14 Years Ago
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Im just going to throw this out there ..just incase check and make sure the exhaust is not banging in the frame..

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/02c74785-3ce2-4b80-a66c-f31f.jpg

"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"
eyks2
Posted 14 Years Ago
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MINE DOESE IN PARK AND IN GEAR ,BUT ONLY AT IDEAL AS SOON AS I GET RPM'S UP IT GOESE AWAY .SOUNDS LIKE A ROD HAMMER    THANKS FOR INPUT


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