It took over 2 weeks for my online order from Napa to arrive. I ordered the rope seal. I figured if it is recommended when the crankshaft seal surface is pitted, it should be a good solution even it's not pitted. Now, where I was able to easily insert the inner neoprene seal while working under the car and without loosening the crankshaft, I'm finding it impossible to get the rope seal in. My last effort included tapering the end with electrical tape to start it in the groove and wrapping wire around the same end and snaking the wire through the seal slot to give me something to pull on while cranking the engine with the other hand. It appeared to be too much rope to get in that little groove. Any suggestions on inserting a rope seal? I'm ready to go back to neoprene. I need to get this car back on the road since I'm trying to sell it. You can see it at http://www.carcruiseguide.com/classified.html Scroll down to 1959 Galaxie.



Randy

Thanks for the picture, Ted. I hope to get back to the car this week. Second time around should go much easier.



Oldmics: I'm in Gaithersburg

If you do have pitting at the crankshaft on the seal surface, then some form of rope seal will come closer to keeping the oil in place.  Here’s a picture of a 312 crankshaft with the aforementioned pitting.  This pitting simply just chews up a neoprene seal very quickly.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Randy

Wherre are you at in Maryland?

Oldmics/Glen Burnie

I'm pretty confident the rope seal came out cleanly. I was turning the crank pulley with one hand and pulling the screw I threaded in with the other. Once the rope started coming out, I put the vise grips on it and kept turning the crank. It slipped right out. I did not closely inspect the crank journal, but will relook when I go back in. What would be the recommended seal assuming the journal is pitted?

Those replacing rope seal in car with neoprene seal should take note of Teds main points here, i have tried before here to also highlite those facts but seems the leaks persist. Ted mentions the 2 seal retainer studs, often these are replaced by bolts and DO have a tendancy to leak. My advice is dont take what seems a shortcut and go pull the engine, remove the crank and do it properly once, also good time for bearing inspection. My 2 cents worth.

  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

You don't have to drop the pan. It is on the back of the block, directly above the rear main. You might be able to see well enough in there with a flash light and mirror. The flywheel pretty well blocks it.

There are also two oil galley plugs on the lower driver side of the block which are also blocked by the flywheel. See if you can get a good view of those, too.


Lawrenceville, GA

Tell me where to look for the cam plug? Do I have to drop the pan? If it's not the cam plug, is the advice to wait and see what I find before purchasing a replacement seal? 

Make sure it's not coming from the cam plug.


Lawrenceville, GA

Randy.  Sure hate to hear that the oil leak is still there.  Here are some questions for you.  How did the seal surface on the crankshaft look?  Pitting on that crankshaft seal surface seems to crop up on engines that sit a lot and those pits can be a real problem with a neoprene seal.  Were you able to successfully remove all the old rope seal from the block side of the groove?  Any residual seal material there can also be a problem when putting a new seal in place.  Are you using the studs at the rear seal retainer for the oil pan retention or two bolts?  When you tear back into it, be sure to post anything you find that may be the contributing culprit.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)