The carb in my '56 Fairlane caught fire today. I was trying to restart it after it sat about 15 minutes. It didn't start after several attempts but didn't notice a backfire either. I started seeing some smoke weeping through the gaps in the hood. I opened it to see flames licking around the bottom of the air cleaner. I quickly put out the fire with an extinguisher. The next step will be to figure out why it caught fire.

It was hard to start earlier today and took a while before it would idle right. It also didn't want to start up to easily after I shut it down for a moment before I took this ill fated trip. It ran fine on the trip.

Before the fire, I was figuring the problems were because it sat for about a month since I last drove it.

I've heard these things can catch fire and have checked it for obvious leaks before driving every time.

The car is all stock and has less than 31K original miles. I'm sure the carb has been rebuilt somewhere along the way but I'm not sure when.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

The nickname for these carbs is "firepot".I would start by having a look at the needle and seat.If the needle is rubber tipped you should locate the old style steel needle and seat.Also is the clip originally used to clip the needle to the float in place on yours?The carb rebuilders throw them away when they use the new replacement needles with the rubber tip.That clip makes the needle move with the float to better control fuel flow.The rubber tipped ones become soft and can stick in the closed position and than open when the fuel pressure forces them open after the float drops-than your carb floods and the raw gas runs down into the motor because the float bowl is located over the carb throat.Another thing to look at is the screw on cover over the needle and seat.These covers are terrible for leaks.There is a new replacement available with an O-ring instead of a flat gasket.I bought one and they are really the solution to that problem.My buddy bought a rebuilt carb,put it on and immediatley starting leaking from that cover.Put on the new replacement and problem solved.Theres a couple of suggestions to start with.One more while I think of it.The centre stud for the air cleaner should not be overtightened on the carb as this can pull the centre of the cover down and lift the edges leaving the cover permaently warped.That stud only needs to be snug not overly tightened. If you go on Ebay and enter #380482947937 that is the old style steel needle and notice the wire clip.Thats the clip to attach to the float.That part# B6A-9654-A is also available from some of the obsolete dealers.

  

Thanks very much for the tips. Those will be the first things I'll check once I clean up the mess from the extinguisher. It certainly could have been far worse. It doesn't look like anything got damaged for now.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

Sorry to hear about that. Same thing happened to a friend of mine and it nearly burnt his 56 bird up. They don't call those carbs "the towering inferno" for no good reason. He went in search of a 57 intake and newer Holley the next day. Told me he'd keep the old burnt up carb in the trunk to show any "purists" that had questions. 

Wichita,KS

As I recall from past conversations the number one problem is overtigtening the center stud. The needle problem is partialy a result of modern (ethanol) gas that attacks the rubber. The old style needle cures that. I think the carb, just like the Y-Block, got somewhat of a bum rap over the years. I know several "Fast" cars that are using them.  Chuck
PS: don't take this to mean I've never had one burn on me.

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I have never used a Teapot but have been told that the cause is plugged air bleeds to the secondary barrels. When these become plugged the fuel can siphon fuel from the float bowl and drip into the manifold. This makes a hot restart difficult and can lead to a back fire.

The vents can be cleaned with a small wire

I would insert a picture if the site would let me. I guess this has changed since the last time I inserted a picture??????????????

Well I guess i figured this out but what a PITA

Anyway, the vent hole acts as a vacuum breaker as long as it is open but when it gets clogged the fuel can flow from the float bowl down into the secondary barrels.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Attachment651.aspx

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

These are all great tips that I will be checking this Saturday when I have a chance. I may just end up converting the car because there will be times it may sit without being driven during the fall and winter months.

I'm kind of surprised to hear that Y-blocks have gotten a bad rap. My last one was a 292 in a '63 F100 and it couldn't be stopped. It was a great engine that was about as smooth as any V8 could run.

The teapot OTH has its issues and it makes more sense now more than it ever did before why my wife's grandfather drove his '56 Fairlane with a fire extinguisher within easy reach.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

If you are thinking about a conversion I can tell you what I did with mine.I bought a 57 and later intake which has the universal square bolt pattern.I used a 390 CFM Holley with electric choke and the later dual advance distributor which you MUST change if you go away from the Teapot.I also installed the Pertronix 2 ignition setup.Much improvement.The gas doesn't evaporate from the float bowl if it sits for a couple of days.The dual advance dist. has the lighter Mr.Gasket advance springs and I have setup the timing advance with help from "Greenbird" so that the vacuum advance is limited and all advance in by 2500 RPM.This setup is much more tuneable than the original setup.Mine is stock but the way it runs now is like night and day.There are other carbs that can be used as other members have done.They all work well.    

  

Oldcarmark, I think I've read your original post about the conversion. I've done a lot of reading lately in regards to going either way.

Once I find out what component caused the fire and if there's been any damage to the teapot, I'll the be able to make a decision.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

That conversion is popular.Different carbs for different people but the results are similar.Better driveability,performance,reliability,and I think gas mileage.Much more adjustable and tuneable.And at the end of the day you can re-install the original compenents and never know it was changed.