That sounded like some serious over-tightening. I tightened my center stud to just snug and then the air cleaner wing nut down to a few clicks.

Originally I found the center stud unscrewed along with the wing nut. Someone had tightened the wing nut really tight into the stud itself.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

[quote][b]oldcarmark (10/9/2012) "The center stud for the air cleaner should not be overtightened"



FYI: That also goes for the air cleaner wing nut!

While I was always careful to torque the stud to no more than shop manual specs., it was over-tightening the wing nut that finally stripped the threads down in the float bowl. Then, instead of springing for an expensive Helicoil kit, I went with the epoxy 'Form-a-Thread' repair, didn't get the stud out in time (glued in), snapped it off while trying to unscrew it, drilled it out and then snapped off an 'easy-out'.

Long story short, I then drilled out and threaded the cover for an oversized stud, which worked fine until recently when tightening the wing nut I pulled out the brass bushing in the cover I had threaded. Everything is glued back together now with high-temp/gas resistant epoxy and working OK, but the carb is seriously screwed up as it will likely need a new float bowl/body & cover some day.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

You will find the flat spot is improved however you should be aware that was a problem with these carbs even when they were new.

  

I replaced my '56 distributor with the wrong vacuum advance to the newer '57-'64 type distributor today. It made a huge difference how the engine started, idled and ran. I also looked over the carb for leaks and I noticed a few damp places that could cause problems. One was around the primary throttle shaft and another place around the secondary feed tubes. Another thing I noticed while trying to start it the first time. It was before I had the timing adjusted the correctly and it hiccuped and I saw gas spit up the air bleeds at the top of the carb near the air cleaner stud. I almost think that might have been the cause of the fire. After I had the timing set, it started and restarted without a problem. The flat spot in acceleration also looked like it was gone. I would have taken it for a drive but it was raining and I have no desire to drive it in bad weather unless I really had too.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

Worth a try after I get everything sorted out.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

You can be sure I'm keeping the old one. I'm sure it's worth more than the $10 core charge.

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

PM sent!

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

I have the tapered later model carb adapter for the early manifold which came off my 312 when I put the BT manifold on, yours for the asking and the price of shipping, let me know. 

Ted, Redding, CA

Give this a shot in it. Ive just put one in mine,use the matching coil! Its not that much more than the ignitor 2. Grab a set of Mr Gasket springs D925 as well

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-Ignitor-3-71281-FORD-1957-1974-V-8-/200805670465?hash=item2ec0f35e41&item=200805670465&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Good deal.Hold onto your old one.If you decide to sell the car at some point it can be converted back to original.