Very nice, thanks for sharing your experience.

Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan

Good work all around. Exhaust sounds great. Y-Blocks are special that way. Keep us posted on your build.

re 1st start, i always mix small amount of oil and gas,pour a small amount doen carb,move the cotainer faraway with timing at some advanc (5dg) then crank her up. if you lubed the cam with a molley based grease from the suppler of cam ther is no need for the cam breakin every 1 tells.when you are sure no leaks and fluid levels correct then take the car for a good run vary the speed a bit bring it up to temp and you are done.do not chang the oil for at least 500miles. change the filter and open it up you will find some dirt etce,cut filter with a sharp chisel so no cuttings from a saw.I have done a no. of wblock overhauls no failure to date,most have had reground cams and refaced lifters(by the cam grinder). yust my experiance

Sounds good! Not to mention this is the first time I remember seeing your car. Nice work. Now if you could just get that scrub out of the driveway and go cruizing. Second startup sounded perfect.
Although you didn't have problems with your links often people forget to space after the hyperlink and put in a period etc. then they aren't recognized as hyperlinks. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

After posting, the links do show up as hyperlinks so all you have to do id click on the links.

When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

Here is a link to a YouTube video of the first start of the engine.

http://youtu.be/OCV64ct6O7Y

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCV64ct6O7Y

These don't show up as hyperlinks so you will probably have to copy and paste them into the address bar of your browser. After thinking about how the start-up went and watching the video, there a a couple of things that I would do differently. Since you want the engine to start immediately and get the rpm to 2K-3K as soon as possible, I would set the initial timing at 15-20 degrees without vacuum advance. I started at about 3 degrees, and as the video shows, It did not want to start. In the video you will see me manually advance the timing twice to get the engine to run and get it up to rpm. After it was running, I checked the timing and it was above the 20 degree mark. Since timing needs to be advanced to run at a higher rpm, it seems to me that that's how it should be set for the initial start and run-in. Also, have a screw driver nearby to advance the idle screw and if that won't keep the rrpms up, then have a piece of wire handy to tie the accelerator open. The last part of the video shows the engine starting after the run-in (twice) and then the timing set and vacuum hooked up to the distributor. It fires immediately and idles smoothly. Listen to the sound at the rear of the car. Fantastic


When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

OK good info for me come about spring. The rebuilder gave me some break-in oil.
What about re-torqueing? Wait till 500 mile check and do valve adj as well?

I brought it down to idle then shut it down. It was quite a bit off time and I think that is what caused the dieseling. Once it was timed, it starts and shuts down properly.

Bud

When Injustice Becomes Law, Resistance Becomes Duty

Bud: If you shut the engine down, while it was at 2500 rpm,(?) that would cause it to diesel..not a good idea.

Paul

You might want to try 8 to 10 degrees initial advance. YBlocks seem to like it.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ