I'm curious if most Y-blocks have a cold-start problem, or is it just mine? The 312 in my '56 Fairlane is out of a 1957 Ford wagon and it has been completely O-hauled: bored .040 over; "RV" cam; Mummert intake; 600cfm Edelbrock carb.

It runs strong and smooth, but it doesn't like to start when it's been sitting for over a couple hours. The longer it sits, the harder it is to start. If it's been sitting for a week or more, I have to crank, crank and crank to get it started, and then I have to let it warm up quite a bit at fast idle before putting it in gear (C4 automatic), otherwise it will stall immediately. Once it's warmed up, it runs beautifully.

I installed an electric fuel pump, thinking maybe gas was evaporating from the carb after sitting for a few days and that by running the fuel pump for a minute or so before starting, it might fill the carb bowl and solve that problem. It didn't. The compression is good in all 8 cylinders; the timing is spot on; plugs are new; carb is new; ignition is Pertronix.

I'm at a loss at this point. Someone suggested this is a problem common to all Y-blocks because of the "stacked" port design of the heads, but I've not heard of that being an issue. By the way, the motor starts instantly with just a slight tap of the key when the engine is warm and has been sitting for less that 10-15 minutes. If it sits for any longer than that, it begins to have starting problems.

Any ideas will be welcome.

Thank you, Ron
Southern California

I can think of 2 things, both of them possibly folklore but here goes. First, I also have an Edelbrock carb and I have the same symptoms you describe. Friends tell me it's just the nature of the beast. Also, y's seem to be cold hearted b*tches. Mine takes it's time warming up, but runs like a top once it does warm up and pops off at the touch of the key. Again, seems to be the nature of the beast.

I would check the fuel system from the pump (Including the pump) back to the gas tank as it sounds like the system bleeds back to the tank and may even have a small enough leak somewhere that does not push out but sucks air into the line. Also if the choke is not set properly you will have to pump enough fuel in to actually cause the motor to "diesel fire" due to excessive fuel needed to start and it will also not idle in gear until it is warmed up. And do not forget the potential vacume leak under the carb, I just had a guy that put a replacement carb on and used the gasket that came with the carb and it had an open center instead of a full gasket which sucked air like all get out with the same type of symptons, put a full gasket in and problem solved. I probably would start there first to be honest.

Tom

What?

I get the same thing when it has been sitting for three or four days or more.

However, if used every day, I don't have a problem and the same if its only been shut down for a short while (4 or 5 hours.)

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I dont have any experience with edelbrocks on y blocks but have had several edelbrocks on other fords. Have you set your idle air screws with a vacuum gauge? May make a difference? Do you pump the throttle at all when its cold?

1962 f250 currently heartless
1961 country squire 292 3 speed
1963 galaxie 390 powered
1976 f250 4wd 390 powered

Tom: Your suggestions sound spot on. It explains why my engine won't start when cold--engine has cooled down, fittings and metal surfaces have contracted, and fuel/vacuum leaks are occurring. Conversely, it would explain why it starts instantly when the engine is hot--all those fittings and metal surfaces have expanded from the heat, sealed as they should, and there are no vacuum/fuel leaks. I'll go back and check everything with those suspicions in mind. Many thanks, Ron...

Hi, when your car is not starting as it should. With the engine OFF, take off the air cleaner and check that the accelerator pump is in fact pumping gas into the carb.
This will allow you to eliminate the fuel supply system as the problem. I have no experience with Edelbrock carbs but that was a very common fault with Rochester 4BBL carbs. No fuel in the fuel bowl after a short period of time. Pete

I have a 292 with a 2100 and manual choke and I am still learning how to get to run cold. I am in South Texas so it is not a long term isssue. 2 weeks ago it was 45 degrees, I left a 65 degree garage and when the motor cooled down a few blocks down the road she died. It took 45 minute to get going. Parked her outside last week (50 degrees) and she started with the choke and then died two blocks away. I adjusted the valves and noticed the choke was completely closing when it was full on. Now I am pulling the choke 3/4 and it has the 3/8 gap specified. That is working better but still do not trust her enough to bring my small childern with me on a cold day.

Runs strong on when she warm. I changed the accelorator pump setting but still get a stumble until she is completely warm.

Might be a little of the nature of the beast. When I was running the 600 Holley never had a problem with starting only if left for weeks at a time, when I went to the 465 it now only goes a few days. I figure its because it has the vent hole on the bowl and it evaporates.
Choke may not be correctly set? Maybe if the float level is not right ? etc etc.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Mine has a 390 cfm holly and starts with no problem cold or hot, the only time I have to crank it longer is if it sits for 4 months or more. Then it need to crank till the fuel pump refills the carb. I would not buy into the "they all start hard when cold" thing