Thanks, Tom. I'm in So. Cal. but wouldn't hesitate to have a quality piece shipped to me from out of state. Ron...

Not sure where you are, But Kraemer/Ridge Co. is a Small Old Time Parts house in Appleton, Wisconsin that will ship or drop ship a Quality rebuilt. Personally I would not buy any from NAPA unless you like changing your starter. Kraemer is at (920) 739-3131



Tom

What?

I have always had the stock ford starter on my 56 (12 volt) and never had a problem with it, just needs a battery with high CCA and good size (larger the better) cables.

Lots of guys use the new Mini Starters, they are much easer to install but I would miss the Y Block starter sound

That sound is unique to the old type starters and is part of the Y's charm, mini starters sound like a toyota on streiods.

Kevin: No drag at all when trying to start. What's a good brand/model starter for the Y block in case I ever need one? Thanks, Ron

You are not kidding, I once had a buick V6 with SFI. It always cranked a long time before it fired, come to find out it took 3 revolutons before the computer would fire the plugs and fuel injectors. The 3 revs were needed for the computer to figure out engine position via the crank and cam sensors so it could fire at TDC.

Daniel may be on to something, does the engine crank fast or does it seem to drag. Nothing better than a good starter and a high CCA battery to get a Y started.

All of my Ys start faster than our new injected cars on a cold morning and they start quick as well.

-Gary Burnette-

The only one that I had a problem with was the 345 horse 312 from my Stock car that I shoved into a '54 Country Squire wagon and had a R-3310-AAS Holley 780 on and still the 6 volt battery and system. I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the air cleaner and would shoot a blast of "Juice" into the carb before I hit the key and she fired right off, only problem as an after thought is that when it fired the REVs shot up before it settled down and one day the fan blade gave up the Ghost and a blade exited the hood. I think that many of us did some dumb things when we were young, I know that I will admit to a few.

Tom

What?

I have owned a number of Y block powered cars and trucks over the past 20 plus years. In that time frame, every carb from the original teapot, Holley 4 barrel, Edelbrock, 2100 and 2300 two barrels, etc. I only ever had one issue with hard starting and that was with one of the 2100's - power valve problem. Other than that on my daily drivers, or even my engines that have sat for a while, it was always an issue with spark to the plugs. The old Bendix starters DRAIN THE JUICE from your ignition when you are cranking - especially those first few revs. Check your battery out as well. Serious cold cranking amps and plenty of juice makes a powerful difference. I have had an issue at times with hard starting but that was because the ignition was not getting enough voltage/amperage.

the Y block is not a "cold start" engine lol

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

I am with you that they don't all start when cold is bogus. In 1963 I got the first of my 13 Fords of 1956 and they all started good cold in these Wisconsin Winters and they lived outside in the cold. My unrestored '57 Bird with the 465 Holley starts first 1/2 turn unless I let it sit a month or so and then I can crank until fuel comes up or just shoot a short blast of carb cleaner (NOT STARTING FLUID) into the carb and it fires right up. There is a reason that Old School Diehards Drove FORDS and that was because you could always depend on them in the Cold Winter Months!!


Tom

What?

The tune and overall condition is important. Bad tune and/or bad condition equals difficult starts, among other things. I don't even use the choke in the winter, even when it gets into the 20s. Two pumps of the gas and it fires right up.

I wouldn't expect a problem with the fuel supply. The carburetor bowl is clearly getting fuel. Otherwise it wouldn't start or run at all. If you're not having issues at cruise, where it will want more fuel, then it just doesn't seem likely. However, an easy way to eliminate the entire fuel system is to use a remote fuel supply, or carefully, with a funnel and length of hose which goes directly to the carburetor. With this you bypass the tank, pump, filter, and all plumbing in between. If it still does not start, you know the fuel supply is not the problem.
I'd verify that the accelerator pump is working sufficiently, that the ignition is working properly, that there are no vacuum leaks, and compression is good. Check the ignition while you are having the problem. It will not help you at all to get it running and then check. An easy way to do that is to have a buddy crank the car while you use a timing light to watch for the flash, which indicates a spark. Or you can pull a plug to look at the color of the spark, which really is best.

So far, the no start problems I've experienced, the ignition was the main cause. There may be other things wrong but usually if fuel gets into the intake and the ignition is working, it's going to do something. It may not roar to life but it will at least sputter or try to start, something.

Another thing, '56 car with a '57 engine, is the distributor from the '56 or '57?


Lawrenceville, GA