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Daniel Jessup
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To be honest, I am not exactly sure why Ford/Holley has that washer installed there, but I am pretty sure it has to do with the venting. I believe it acts as a deflector so that the incoming air does not affect those vent holes. Someone here with some gray hair correct me if I am wrong on that...
Seems I remember a video that was posted here some time ago. It was during the annual Y block nationals and the video showed Ted Eaton discussing that very issue of the washer. I can't remember and I can't find the video!
sorry about that
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" 
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Jimz Bird
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 10 Years Ago
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This is probably more than you asked for but I will take a chance that it may be useful to you or others.
Jim
Norfolk, VA
"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)
"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
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Thanks Jim. So far, Mike's looks like the best resource for the carb.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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Meandean
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Group: Forum Members
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No expert but your problem sounds exactly like what happened to me not too long after I purchased my 55. Coming back from an evening cruise and pulling up to a rural stop sign and it died. Would not start. Finally got towed to a friend of a friend about 2 miles away and then called tow truck to haul it home the next day. Frustration and confusion. Let it set for about a week because I didn't want to deal with it. Started right up. Drove in around the neighborhood and no more problems. Then drove it about 15 miles one day to a friend's car gathering and it did it again (how does it know when I'm far away from home?!?!). Anyway, that time it eventually did start and then I noticed it was loading up big time. Made it home by popping it in neutral at every stop and keeping the engine revs up. Next day I took the carb apart and cleaned out the little orange rust deposits to include the float seat and put it back together. Added an in-line filter between the fuel pump and carburetor and have had no problems since. I now make it an annual maintenance task to replace the fuel filter. Takes about 5 minutes max and cost about $4. It probably is no where near clogged, but it's cheap insurance and gives me peace of mind.
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
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I'll have to open up the top and check the bowl, float and seat. The car had a new tank installed before I bought it. It does sit most of the time but I've tried to empty the tank when it sat. I've also only used ethanol free gas the last few times.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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charliemccraney
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Group: Moderators
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Daniel Jessup (7/21/2014)
Seems I remember a video that was posted here some time ago. It was during the annual Y block nationals and the video showed Ted Eaton discussing that very issue of the washer. I can't remember and I can't find the video!
sorry about that
Lawrenceville, GA
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
Posts: 575,
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I think he's talking about a different washer under the air cleaner screw. Anyway I have the right bolt in that spot and it was snug. The 56 carb does not seem to have the "fender" washer that goes under the bolt. I took the bowl cover of to see the inside of the bowl and it was ugly. There was this slimy sludge in there that dried into hardened powder-like substance. I was able to blow most of it out. Then I took a small brush and gently scrubbed the rest with some gas. It cleaned up nicely after blowing it out again. I'll check the rest of the orifices out tomorrow to make sure they're clear. I'm still not sure this gunk was the problem. The float valve seemed OK. I also cleaned the fine screen at the fuel inlet in the carb. I might try it out again after I put it back together. I won't go to the trouble and expense of rebuilding it. I have the B manifold and Autolite 4100 almost ready to go if the teapot remains problematic.
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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Daniel Jessup
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Group: Forum Members
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I believe that was the video I was referring to, thank you Charlie. Could not remember all of the content, but that certainly was Ted Eaton discussing the "seal" there at the stud and that washer that goes underneath of the stud. That had to be the video I was thinking about.
DJ - if you carburetor is that "gunked" inside the fuel bowl then I would imagine that there would be other areas/orifices of the carb that would need a good cleaning and inspection. I suggest you remove the teapot and install your B manifold and Autolite 4100. Those videos in the series from "Mike" are good references for a rebuild. It sounds like your teapot would not need much, just a little attention and a suggested kit. If you get a kit, go with someone like Daytona Carburetor down in Florida. Their materials and kit parts are excellent.
 Lancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
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I don't plan on tearing into the teapot any further. It's going back together and then into a box to be put away for that day "if I ever sell the car". I'll at least have all the original parts to include in the sale. Right now my plans are to temporarily put the 4100 on the A manifold to see what sorting out it may need. I have an adapter that will work. I have a nice B manifold but I need to paint it to match the original patina of the engine. Right now the bright red of my B manifold will just stick out too much from the rest of the engine. Before I make the complete conversion, I also need to find a correct carb spacer and a pre-bent fuel line. I don't have a big enough tube bender to bend the size of stock tube that I need. I'll probably use some fittings and rubber hose until I find the right tube.
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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GREENBIRD56
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When I drove my '56 home it had the teapot on board - and the troublesome vacuum only distributor - and I had to "maintain" the rascal like an evil MG or the like. The point being - that even when I did a "proper job" of restoring the various items - it still wouldn't stay fixed. I finally went looking for the '57 top end equipment (with later day improvements) and haven't regretted the change - despite "disapproval" by the perfect T-bird enthusiasts. It's possible to keep a very authentic look to the vehicle - without using the "perfect" parts. All of the troublesome bits are now in the garage attic with "next owner" marked on the boxes. But it starts and runs very nicely, thank you.
Just think of the day to come, when you'll just check the oil - and fire it up for a drive!
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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