Thanks. It's kind of hard to get a good look at the actual fitting and the valve but I do get the idea here. Do you know if that was stock and if something like it is available somewhere?


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

I sold the ‘57 last year but here’s a picture of the engine just prior to being removed with the heater control valve still in place.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I did a bit of googling and it looks like all that goes in the hole in question is a 90dg fitting and the heater valve is remotely controlled somewhere up the line.


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

So it sounds I would need the control valve used in the 57's full sized cars. Ted, do you have a photo or a link to a photo of the control valve?


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

Heater Control Valve
Something like this will work in line from the 90 degree fitting.
Maybe locally sourced. Dodge et al. Here they have them for lever closed either way. $26.37
http://www.bpeusa.com/BPEheaterValve.asp





Jim
Norfolk, VA

"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)

"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)

When looking for a cable heater control valve make sure it works in the right direction. It took a little searching to get the right one. Unfortunately I don't recall what it fit but I think it was a 60's Ford. As far as the carb interference some adapters have a recess area to clear. Can you grind on your space to gain the needed space? Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I don’t recall seeing any ’57 Ford V8’s using the intake mounted vacuum controlled heater valve which would help to explain the clearance issue you’re having with the later model Ford carburetor on that intake in conjunction with what I'll call a '56 Ford heater control valve.  That same vacuum control valve on a ’56 Ford would not have had a clearance problem using the Model 4000 (Teapot) 4V Holley.  My '57 Fairlane with a 312 engine had a manually operated valve at that location and from all initial appearances, looks stock.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The T-bird guys often use a replacement water control valve that is operated by a cable from your heater controls - rather than the (troublesome/expensive) vacuum valve.  The new manual valve fits at the hot water entrance to your heater core and the old valve on the intake is replaced by a 90º heater elbow from a 289.  A fellow told me the simple lever operated valve is from a 60's International pickup (though I can imagine others would work) - and the longer cable (?). In place, the new parts look pretty much like they belonged there.............

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

No, I mocked one up with an aluminum adapter and it still was binding. I could just try to use a low angled elbow for the heater hose but then I might have heat all the time. The part number on the carb I have indicated it was for a Y block but I'm wondering if the parts book is wrong?

~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles

Will a thick phenolic spacer help it clear maybe?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com