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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
Posts: 575,
Visits: 14.6K
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By golly Steve, that's what I was hoping I could when I bought the car! My wife's grandfather had a 1956 Customline (I think) Victoria up until 1973. He always drove around with a fire extinguisher sitting near the driver's kick panel or the the tranny hump. I never hear any story about a fire in the car but he must have known something. I never really asked him about it. Too bad he passed away around 2001. I know he would have had some good tips or he maybe would have said to me why on earth did you buy a car like it. He actually worked for Ford back in the day. He traded the 56 for a brand new 73 Gran Torino. I continued to see the 56 being driven around town by an older lady for many years after that. Thinking back I would have really liked to have had that car but at the time I wasn't that interested in it nor was I offered it.
I'm going to get some paint, gaskets, hoses and fittings and get my car reliable.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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DryLakesRacer
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 340.0K
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56---If you do the swap and don't want to use rubber fuel lines invest in a 3 size ( 1/4" 5/16", 3/8" ) tubing bender. I have one from Harbor Freight and it's worked perfectly.($6) Stainless line will break it.
I make mockups of what I want with coat hangers and then make the bends on the tubing. An auto parts store near me stocks different size and lengths of "fuel" line with fittings and after the bending I usually need to make one cut and double flare. I didn't like the double flare tool from HF so I bought a better one Amazon along with a new tubing cutter. I've bent new fuel and vacuum lines for the distributor and wiper and the hot air for the choke.
After I've made my cut I usually need to practice a flare to get it right. Some say you don't need a double on fuel fines, just on brakes, but I usually do it for all but the heat line on the automatic choke.........Good Luck
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
Posts: 575,
Visits: 14.6K
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Thanks for the tip. I've already ordered the last few parts I need including the fuel line already bent, to do the swap.
~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
Posts: 575,
Visits: 14.6K
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I just noticed this evening when trying a dry fit, the Autolite doesn't exactly fit the B manifold. The heater valve on the manifold is in the way with the linkage in the front of the carburetor. Here a picture of one for reference where you can see the linkage I am talking about.
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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Daniel Jessup
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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Will a thick phenolic spacer help it clear maybe?
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" 
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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56_Fairlane
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 6 Months Ago
Posts: 575,
Visits: 14.6K
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No, I mocked one up with an aluminum adapter and it still was binding. I could just try to use a low angled elbow for the heater hose but then I might have heat all the time. The part number on the carb I have indicated it was for a Y block but I'm wondering if the parts book is wrong? I guess I just need to look for a Holley 4160 even though I'm not a big fan of their carburetors. They're more complicated than the need to be.
Anyone have a good spare 4160 that I would just be able to bolt on and use?
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
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GREENBIRD56
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Last Year
Posts: 1.7K,
Visits: 102.7K
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The T-bird guys often use a replacement water control valve that is operated by a cable from your heater controls - rather than the (troublesome/expensive) vacuum valve. The new manual valve fits at the hot water entrance to your heater core and the old valve on the intake is replaced by a 90º heater elbow from a 289. A fellow told me the simple lever operated valve is from a 60's International pickup (though I can imagine others would work) - and the longer cable (?). In place, the new parts look pretty much like they belonged there.............
Steve Metzger Tucson, Arizona
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Ted
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Group: Administrators
Last Active: 3 hours ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.6K
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I don’t recall seeing any ’57 Ford V8’s using the intake mounted vacuum controlled heater valve which would help to explain the clearance issue you’re having with the later model Ford carburetor on that intake in conjunction with what I'll call a '56 Ford heater control valve. That same vacuum control valve on a ’56 Ford would not have had a clearance problem using the Model 4000 (Teapot) 4V Holley. My '57 Fairlane with a 312 engine had a manually operated valve at that location and from all initial appearances, looks stock.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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MoonShadow
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: Yesterday
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When looking for a cable heater control valve make sure it works in the right direction. It took a little searching to get the right one. Unfortunately I don't recall what it fit but I think it was a 60's Ford. As far as the carb interference some adapters have a recess area to clear. Can you grind on your space to gain the needed space? Chuck
Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
 
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
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Jimz Bird
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 10 Years Ago
Posts: 118,
Visits: 7.9K
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Heater Control Valve
Something like this will work in line from the 90 degree fitting.
Maybe locally sourced. Dodge et al. Here they have them for lever closed either way. $26.37
http://www.bpeusa.com/BPEheaterValve.asp
Jim
Norfolk, VA
"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)
"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)
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