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More teapot woes

Posted By 56_Fairlane 11 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane
Question Posted 11 Years Ago
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Took my 56 for a nice drive or at least I was hoping it would have turned out that way. It was running really nicely until it sputtered out in a left turn lane. It wouldn't restart. A couple of really nice guys with tow straps helped pull me into a parking lot. The carb looked a little wet so I let it air out with the throttles open for a few minutes. Tried to restart and I could see gas start gushing from the side of the carb, The air cleaner was back on at this point so I couldn't see exactly where it came from as I quickly went to shut it off but it sputtered out on it's own. To me this sounds like a float issue that let it overflow.
If it is, is this something fairly simple that can be looked into?


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
speedpro56
Posted 11 Years Ago
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It could also be the gasket under the big screw that holds the needle and seat not tight enough or just wore out. The float can be adjusted as well if not for a pin hole in the float letting  it fill up with gas and going to the carb floor.

-Gary Burnette-


DryLakesRacer
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Sorry to read of your problem. I remember our families original 56 and some problems my dad had with the carb and ignition.
Not wanting to alter the look of my 56, I changed the teapot Holley to a small base Carter WCFB. Many were made for 50's Mopars, GMs, Packards, Studebakers, Mercurys and Lincs. I used one from a 53 Cadillac which needed a small bracket for the throttle linkage. They adapt easily to the stock choke also. It has been trouble free and no worries about flooding or leakage. The jetting was perfect; the Cad has more cubes but less compression. I also installed a 57-62 centrifugal/vacuum distributor which made the conversion easy.
For the "stock" look, I converted a stock air cleaner I bought off e-bay to cover the change and look factory. Most looking have no idea. I can e-mail you photos if you want. All seem to be too big when I try on this site and I can't seem to make them smaller.....good luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.
Daniel Jessup
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Very few carburetors are as sensitive to fuel pressure and leaks as the Holley 4000's. That being said, they are a good carburetor when built correctly. The Y block got it's name and prominence with many of them holding teapots on the intake - let's not forget that. I would imagine that the fix would be pretty simple once you are able to get it home and in your garage so that you could take a look at it. I noticed your title said, "More teapot woes" ... did you have this one rebuilt by somebody and then started having trouble? I can't remember the earlier posts. I can tell you this - What Gary is telling you is most probably the first place to check, especially if you have a smooth bore behind that brass plug. The fuel bowls that had the spring loaded fuel needle/seats are extremely sensitive to fuel pressure and leaks. What fuel pump are you running by the way?

Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


oldcarmark
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Couple of suggestions.When these Carbs are rebuilt usually the little clip that keeps the needle moving in tandem with the float is discarded.That clip should be re-installed.Most of the rebuild Kits include a new style inlet needle with a "soft" Tip.The originals were all Steel and can be purchased from some of the vintage Ford Parts sellers.The cover over the inlet are very bad for leaking.There is a superior replacement now available that uses an  o-ring instead of a Gasket.One of the T-Bird suppliers sell  them.Casco maybe?Personally I gave up on mine with the "dead" spot just off idle and replaced it with a 4160 Holley(new with Electric Choke) and a "B" Manifold and late Distributor.Like Night and Day.This swap can always be reversed-but why would anyone want to?Just my little input.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a82cee8f-be33-4d66-b65d-fcd8.jpg  http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/339ed844-0bc3-4c73-8368-5dd3.jpg
56_Fairlane
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I haven't had a chance to check the big screw again. I didn't really have much time to look at anything today. I checked it after the last time I had trouble with it and it looked fine. After the last time, I did switch to the later distributor. It seemed to run better. Someone had installed the wrong vacuum advance on the original distributor and I thought it was the problem then. The only difference this time was it sputtered out when I came to a stop and would not restart. I had made a couple of stops before this happened and it seemed to start fine and ran good until I went to make that left turn.
The other time I had just shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't restart. After a few attempts that time it ended up backfiring up the carb an a small fire erupted. Luckily it got put out before any damage occurred.
I really hadn't had a chance to drive it since the last problem until today. I was only driving it a few short distances around my house but I was getting it warmed up every time.
I'm running an aftermarket double action pump with no glass sediment bowl. I have another one with the bowl I recently got from another member here. I also soon after getting that one, I got an NOS AC pump. They both seem to work well on the bench.
The next chance I get, I am going to try to start it an see where the gas is leaking from. I also have a B manifold and a 57 model Autolite 4100 just waiting to go on but I was putting it off thinking the teapot was OK.
Maybe this will be the time to make the swap once and for all.




~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
slumlord444
Posted 11 Years Ago
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You might check to see if the vent holes in the top of the  carb are clogged. Can cause flooding.
56_Fairlane
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Just so I know which are the vent holes on this carb, is there a good image that show them?


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles
Daniel Jessup
Posted 11 Years Ago
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I don't have an image to show you right now, but the vent holes he is referring to is actually on the very top plate that covers the fuel bowl. 4 cap screws and the main air cleaner stud mount hold the plate to the fuel bowl. You should have a large washer (resembles a fender washer) under your stud on the middle of the top plate. If you remove the stud and washer, you should be able to see all of the vent holes. They are small.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid249.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fgg208%2Fdanaxjessup%2FHolley%2520Teapot%2520Ford%2520Carbuertor%25204000%2Fteapotfour.mp4&title=Holley%20Teapot%204000%20Talk%20Ford%20Instructions%20three">


http://vid249.photobucket.com/albums/gg208/danaxjessup/Holley%20Teapot%20Ford%20Carbuertor%204000/teapotfour.mp4
click on the above link. I found a video I made for a buddy of mine that shows the lid and the large washer that you need to remove to see the vent holes. Keep in mind that the teapot I am holding in the video is a 56 (I assume you have a 56 correct?) the earlier versions have a different set up for the choke and also the secondary tubes, but the overall issues in question will be answered for you.


Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" w00t
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com


56_Fairlane
Posted 11 Years Ago
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Yes I have the 56. IIRC, I think that washer shown is missing. I wonder if that is the root of my problem?

Thanks for the video, Reverend.


~DJ~ AKA "Bleach"
1956 Ford Fairlane Town Sedan 30K original miles


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