My firewall had a bunch of holes from a couple different master cylinders. I wanted to install the new master as high as possible so I could remove the valve cover without removing the master and to keep it away from the heat of the manifold. So I enlarged the hole through the firewall on the top side until the brake rod aligned with the brake pedal arm hole. I then made an aluminum plate that fit between the booster bracket and firewall, I drilled a hole in the correct place in the plate and welded a short piece of angle cut tubing to the plate. Plate was sealed to the firewall and booster was installed with a short piece of hose between the tubing I welded and the snout on the booster. The whole assembly ended up being installed slid all the way up in the slots. I can remove the valve cover no problem.

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

my guess is if you have a duel drum brake master cyl. it should have a residual check valve built into it., so there for,  you have to know is the front reservoir primary for the front brakes because your fronts should start to activate before the rears like % 60 front and 40 rear so in winter conditions  you rears don,t come on first then you,ll see things happen !!! and disk brake masters don,t used a check valve drum brake masters reguire about  5to 7 psi to maintain a small amount of fluid pressure to keep shoe to drum contact till they wear and have to be adjusted and so you have brake pedel rite away and fluid pressure with in and couple of inchs and most front disks have a small reservoir for the rear and a large res . for the front  this is just my thought  hope this helps (clear as mud ) shakey Pete and merry xmas to all

Absolutely the only way to get brake lines undone.

Even the cheap Chinese spanners you seem to be only able to get these days will almost always get them loose. Sometimes a little bit of careful heat helps to free the rust on the nut threads. DON'T TWIST THE PIPES!!!

Regards


Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

When I ordered the kit from Old Irish Dave I asked the question; It looks as though I may be keeping my car with the drum brakes setup due to club licensing here [not supossed to even have this type of brake booster].
So this unit works fine with the drums? and how do the brakelines work going to a dual curcuit?

 answer;Rob, You have to separate fronts from rears and plumb accordingly to the dual master cyl. Everything else will work fine. You shouldn't need any valves at all as long as you keep your brakes adjusted up properly.

SO, as far as I can see it I dont need any valves.. or as far as told!.. Mark did your mate with the drums have any problems?

Im still going Front to front rear to rear with the lines ....Yes?

LAst call people for any other info as I'll start to do the lines etc tonight...

Rick, John any of our guys got this setup???



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

My buddy with a 55 with drum brakes used this booster/master setup also.He did not add any valves to the setup and it works  fine.As mentioned before the lines on mine are front resovoir to rear brakes and rear resovoir to front brakes.I do not have the factory style prop valve(I have front discs on mine)but I do have an adjustable valve on the frame to adjust pressure to rear brakes.Dont bforget to bench bleed the master before installing it.I just did a little search on the internet regarding plumbing and    residual pressure valves.On disc brake vehicles with 2 different size resovoirs the front one is usually the bigger one and goes to the front brakes-so thats what I would suggest you do even though mine is the opposite.Residual pressure valves are usually required when the master cylinder is even with or lower than the wheel cylinders or calipers such as when the master is mounted under the floor.I do not think you need them on yours as my buddys car worked fine without the.I would suggest that you create some "loops" in the steel line going from master to the frame.These will handle stress created from heat and vibration.I used a piece of PVC pipe in a vise and carefully bent the line around the pipe to create 2-3 loops.The steel line wont collapse if you keep pressure against the pipe(or whatever you use) as you shape the steel line. Hope this is helpful.

  

Yep haven't forgotten what you said about the "hardlines' to the master cyl for bleeding, so havin that knocked up this arvo with the other lines...

Why did you do the lines rear to to front, front to rear????



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I just edited my last post as you were posting yours.I think I answered your question when I edited it.

  

Always helpfull Mark...  I thought about doing the loops, but thought it was not necessary the lines are straight out to the fender and then down as far away as they are going to get from any heat etc.. plus I was running out of line...

Think I will try making up some sort of heat shield for the booster, its gonna cook!

Its good to know Im on the right track..



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Rob, I'm running much the same system as you with no prolems. No need for proportioning valves or anything. The word from the local examiner is that pedalvac system is fine.

Regards

Rick

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

The suggested coils in the line are not so much for heat but more to absorb vibration.