Another one guys , I bought one of those power booster kits a while back, any tips on fitting those. I have the dual circuit master cylinder and need a diagram of where the brake lines should go. this is for drums all round...

Cheers!



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

This is easy. Look at the frame behind the left front wheel. You will find a brass junction block that divide the front and rear brakes. Remove the line going to the rear and put in a screw in plug. These are availiable where you get you brake line. Then you will need about 30 inch brake line and connector hooked onto the line going to the rear to go up to your master cylinder. Rear line goes to front of master cylinder, front one to rear. Bleed and your done.

Ol'ford nutCentral Iowa

56 Vic w/292 & 4 spd.

The only thing I would ad is bench bleed the master before hooking up lines.The plastic lines that come with  the master are a waist of time.Get 2 short steel lines and bend so they go back into resovoir under the fluid level(so not exposed to air) and bleed in a vise until no air bubbles appear.This will save you some time and grief when you bleed the whole system.I did my lines a little different.Got a second connector block that will bolt to frame to hookup front line.I used the existing block to hookup rear brakes with a plug where the front line hooked in.I would suggest running lines on the fender side of the master to avoid the heat of the manifolds.As for the brake light switch I put a 3 way tee in the line comming out of the master that would accept 2 brake lines and the switch.Done right the existing wires will reach the switch without splicing new wire.If you are using the kit where the master ends up tilted up(angled mounting brackets)I found I had to do some trimming with a grinder to get the brackets to fit flat against the firewall.The pushrod ends up at a funny angle so I drilled a second hole in the pedal lower(about 1-1 1/2 inches) than the original hole where the pushrod ends up with the new setup.No problems-works fine.Make sure you adjust the new pushrod length so there is a little freeplay before you feel resistance when the pushrod starts to push on the booster.This ensures the brakes are fully released when the brake pedal is released.My buddy did his with drum brakes and it stops like a different car.Very happy with the setup for a reasonable investment.I put discs on mine and it stops even better than his.

  

Guys can I just check about which lines go where at the master cyl. I ask because when I was at the brake shop they had a look at the master cyl and they seem to think the front brake  lines go to the front of the cyl and the back line goes to the back.. Its the kit from old Irish Dave. What is the master cylinder off anyway? 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Don't guess. Usually the larger reservoir is for the front brakes. Determine the application for the cylinder and then you can find out which is which.


Lawrenceville, GA

Both resovoirs are the same size because this is a Corvette style with 4 wheel disc brakes.I have mine plumbed front to rear brakes and rear to front brakes.I dont think it is real critical unless you are using disc front with a prop valve.If there was a large and small resovoir the large one is for front brakes.

  

I also have the master from Dave. I also have the GM proportioning valve. It requires the front port go to the front brakes (there are two outlets out of the valve) and the rear port goes to the rear brakes ( one port out of the valve). Here is a link that shows the correct port for most masters.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/uploads/documents/mcplumbingpdf.pdf

1956 Fairlane Victoria (ORREO)

 

Overlooking Beautiful Rimrock AZ

Thanks guys . Like you Mark I have had to trim the brackets to get it to fit around the screws coming through the firewall Agh! looks like either trimming the upper side of the firewall hole so the brake rod goes through or taking the pedal out and drilling another hole like you did.  How did you seal up the hole thats in the firewall? the rubber cushion thing on the rod its too far away and wont do it..mm

The brake booster is very close to the manifold... any problems anyone?? make a heat shield?

Any tips for undoing the brake lines.. 50+ years and they wont budge, Ive wrecked one nut already and broken the mounting at the block.. I should have just cut the line and used a ring spanner instead of trying an open ender on them AGHhh!! Who was the bright spark that designed and put them in such and awkward place..same one that put the front balancer seal on the INSIDE of the timing cover I suppose..

I think it might be safe for me to put the front lines to the front and back to the back of the master cyl. Its the only way I have ever seen brake lines go..The guys that looked at it in the brake shop said something like they could see bigger ports at the front.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I drilled the pedal in the car.Put down a cloth to collect the  chips and use a quality drill bit.Its NOT hardened steel.If you redrill the pedal you wont have to touch the firewall and brake works fine.I used a rubber  body plug(same size as the one on the transmission tunnel) to seal the pushrod at the firewall.Cut a hole for the pushrod to go through and cut slits towards the outer edge of the plug to make it flexible for the pushrod to move.Clearance near the manifold is sufficient as is.Just run your lines on the fender side away from the manifold.You really do need a proper brake nut wrench to work on the lines-removing or installing.You wont round off the fittings.All ports on the master are the same size.The brake lines were installed prior to the body being installed I think-same as the fuel lines.I redid mine with the motor out so it was easy.The 2 screws that stick through the fire wall were not a problem.I think I just removed them from inside the car.Trimming of the mounts was required so the bracket would sit flat on the firewall.

  

I've heard them called Line nut wrenches and flare nut wrenches. They are amazing. Still not guaranteed to get it loose, but odds are that it will come loose without rounding if that type of wrench is used. It's essentially a reinforced 6 point box end wrench with just enough cut out so it fill fit over the tubing and onto the nut. They are also available as a crows foot style for use with a ratchet.


Lawrenceville, GA