They may be too soft which is part of the problem.I guess I just take it for granted when I walk into the local parts store and buy premade steel line in whatever length is close to what I need.

  

Mark I bought a length of tube and just made my own lines, then took it to the brake place to get them to do the double flares for me..Dont think it was such a good job they did as it didnt seal well .. He said to me the line was copper impregnated...  uugh??? 

Yes we have right hand drive ones, the Customline as they are kown here but my car I found in Cali and bought it out.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I tried the brake light switch in that "special" fitting and could not get it to stop seeping.I purchased a 3-way tee( as used on the frame) and put it in the  line comming out of the master using a short line from the master and the existing new line down to the frame.I dont know why the fitting supplied with the booster to use the brake light switch  wont seal properly.Looks like a good install you did.If you overtighten the lines going into the master the flare will flatten out and leak.Do not use pipe sealant tape on the fittings.I dont know if your replacement lines come with one short and one long fittings like ours but I used the long fitting into the master cylinder.I just had another look at your pic.Are those new lines steel or copper?In the pic they look like copper.I was under the impression that these cars exported to Ozzy were RH drive.Guess I was wrong.

  

It has been frustrating and Im aware it shouldn't take much to seal. I think Ive done it [fingers crossed] Its all new parts thats the thing I cant understand. Going into the old lines it hasn't been a problem , the lines going into the new mastercylinder and even the copper washer where the brake switch is just refused to seal..AGhhhh!

Merry Chirstmas everyone !



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

They shouldn't require much to seal. Resist the urge to strip threads and make certain the double flares are square and that any of the fittings have not been damaged previously.


Lawrenceville, GA

AGHHHhhh!! Im not having joy from this.... the lines that I have had made up are not doing well... Ive tightned them up several times to get them to seal ... Mmm Not happy Jan!! Did take it for a run and its a big difference, just need some fine adjustment with the pedal and a lot of prayers that the lines hold out and things stop leaking!! 



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

The suggested coils in the line are not so much for heat but more to absorb vibration.

  

Rob, I'm running much the same system as you with no prolems. No need for proportioning valves or anything. The word from the local examiner is that pedalvac system is fine.

Regards

Rick

Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!

Always helpfull Mark...  I thought about doing the loops, but thought it was not necessary the lines are straight out to the fender and then down as far away as they are going to get from any heat etc.. plus I was running out of line...

Think I will try making up some sort of heat shield for the booster, its gonna cook!

Its good to know Im on the right track..



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I just edited my last post as you were posting yours.I think I answered your question when I edited it.